Grow Your Own ยท Zone 7 ยท Philadelphia ยท South Jersey ยท Delaware ยท Maryland

The freshest, cheapest food you can get is the food you grow.

You don't need land. You need light, a container, dirt and water. A rowhome windowsill, a bucket on a back step, a fire escape, a shared plot down the block โ€” people in this region have fed themselves from all of them. This page tells you exactly what to plant, when to plant it here, and how to do it for almost no money.

๐ŸŒฑ ๐Ÿชด ๐Ÿ… ๐ŸŒถ๏ธ ๐Ÿฅฌ ๐ŸŒฟ ๐Ÿซ‘ ๐Ÿ“

First: what actually pays you back

Not everything is worth growing. Some crops save you real money; others are a hobby. If the goal is your grocery bill, grow the top row.

Worth itWhySkip (if money is the point)Why not
Herbs โ€” basil, parsley, cilantro, mint, chives, oreganoThe single highest return in gardening. A $3 packet replaces years of $3 plastic clamshells.CornNeeds a big block to pollinate; costs pennies at any farm stand.
Salad greens & spinachExpensive to buy, fast to grow, cut-and-come-again for months.PotatoesCheap by the 10 lb bag; takes a lot of space for the payoff.
TomatoesOne healthy plant can produce 10โ€“20+ lb. Homegrown genuinely tastes different.Onions & garlic (for savings)Very cheap to buy โ€” though garlic is nearly effortless if you have the space.
Hot & sweet peppersCostly at the store, thrive in pots, and dry or freeze beautifully.Wheat & grainsNot realistic at household scale.
Green onionsRegrow from the scrap ends of ones you already bought. Free, forever.Melons & pumpkinsEnormous sprawl for one or two fruits.
Cherry tomatoes, bush beans, zucchiniAbsurdly productive per square foot. One zucchini plant will overwhelm you.Head cabbage & cauliflowerLong season, pest magnets, and dirt cheap to buy.
Sprouts & microgreensIndoors, year-round, 5โ€“10 days start to harvest, no sun needed for sprouts.Asparagus & artichokeExcellent crops โ€” but 2โ€“3 years before your first real harvest.
If you plant one thing this year: a pot of basil and a pot of cherry tomatoes on the sunniest spot you have. Highest odds of success, highest odds you keep going.

๐Ÿชฃ Starting with no money

Garden centers want you to spend $200 before you plant a seed. You don't have to spend anything close to that.

Free containers

5-gallon buckets โ€” ask any bakery, deli, restaurant or hardware store; they throw them out constantly. Also: cat-litter tubs, storage totes, coffee cans, takeout containers for seedlings, and cut-down milk jugs. Drill or punch drainage holes in the bottom of every one โ€” this is the #1 container-garden killer.

Cheap soil

Bagged potting mix is the one thing worth buying โ€” garden dirt compacts into concrete in a pot. Buy the big bag; the small bag is priced per ounce like perfume. Stretch it by mixing 50/50 with finished compost.

Free compost

Many cities and counties give away finished compost or leaf mulch free to residents in spring โ€” check your public works or sanitation department. Coffee shops give away used grounds by the bucket.

Free seeds

Seed libraries at public libraries โ€” yes, really: take seeds free, return some at the end of the season. Also seed swaps, neighbors, and the seeds inside the peppers and tomatoes you already bought.

Free plants

Green onion ends, celery bottoms, romaine hearts, garlic cloves that sprouted, ginger that sprouted, and potato eyes all regrow. So does basil โ€” a supermarket sprig in a glass of water roots in about a week.

Cheap starts

Hardware stores and even dollar stores sell seed packets and starter plants in spring. Late spring, garden centers mark down leggy leftovers hard โ€” those plants are usually fine and half price or less.

Total realistic startup: free buckets + one big bag of potting mix + a few packets of seeds. Under $25 gets a real, producing container garden going.

โ˜€๏ธ Before anything else: find your light

More gardens fail from not enough sun than from any other cause. Spend one day figuring this out and you'll save a whole season.

Map your sun

On any clear day, check your window, step, yard or fire escape at 9am, noon, 3pm and 6pm and note whether that spot is in direct sun. Add up the hours.

  • 6+ hours direct sun โ€” you can grow anything: tomatoes, peppers, squash, beans, cucumbers.
  • 4โ€“6 hours โ€” leafy greens, herbs, radishes, bush beans, and smaller cherry-type tomatoes.
  • 2โ€“4 hours โ€” lettuce, spinach, kale, arugula, mint, parsley, chives. Greens actually prefer some shade in July here.
  • Under 2 hours โ€” sprouts and microgreens indoors, or an inexpensive LED grow light.

South-facing gets the most light all day. West-facing gets hot afternoon sun. East-facing gets gentle morning sun โ€” great for greens. North-facing gets the least.

City-specific things that matter here

  • Rowhome roofs and walls radiate heat. A south-facing brick wall can cook a pot in August โ€” expect to water twice a day, and consider afternoon shade for greens.
  • Test your soil before growing in the ground. Older city lots, especially near painted houses built before 1978, can carry lead. Penn State Extension does inexpensive soil tests by mail.
  • If in doubt, grow in containers or raised beds with clean bought soil. That removes the contamination question entirely โ€” and it's why so much city gardening is done in buckets and beds.
  • Wash all produce well regardless, and peel root vegetables grown in ground you haven't tested.
  • Wind on balconies and roofs dries pots out fast and snaps tall plants. Group pots together and stake early.

Penn State soil testing โ†’

๐Ÿ“… When to plant โ€” Philadelphia & the surrounding region

We're in USDA zone 7 (roughly 7aโ€“7b). Average last spring frost in central Philadelphia is around April 20; average first fall frost is around October 15 โ€” about 167 frost-free days. Outlying and higher areas run one to two weeks later in spring. South Jersey, Delaware and the Maryland shore run similar to slightly earlier.

MonthWhat to do
JanuaryPlan and order seeds while everything's in stock. Grow sprouts and microgreens indoors. Clean and disinfect pots.
FebruaryAround Feb 21: start tomatoes, peppers and eggplant indoors under light. Also start broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce indoors.
MarchAround Mar 2: plant onions, potatoes and peas outside. Around Mar 20: direct-sow spinach, lettuce, radishes, kale and other cool-season greens if the ground is workable.
AprilAround Apr 11: transplant your cole crops (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower) and lettuce outside. Keep sowing greens and radishes every two weeks. Around Apr 20 the frost risk passes. Around Apr 27: transplant tomatoes, peppers and eggplant โ€” after the last frost.
MayAround May 1, once soil hits 60ยฐF: direct-sow beans, corn, squash, zucchini, cucumbers, melons and pumpkins. Plant basil now โ€” it hates cold. Mulch everything.
JunePeak growth. Water deeply and consistently. Stake and tie tomatoes. Harvest greens before they bolt in the heat. Sow another round of beans.
JulyHarvest heavily โ€” the more you pick beans, zucchini and cucumbers, the more they produce. Water daily in containers. Late July: start fall broccoli, cabbage and kale seedlings.
AugustPeak tomatoes and peppers โ€” this is preserving season. Direct-sow fall crops: spinach, lettuce, radishes, turnips, carrots. Pull anything finished and replant the space.
SeptemberFall greens thrive in cooling weather. Keep harvesting. Plant garlic cloves late in the month through October for next summer's harvest.
OctoberFirst frost around Oct 15. Cover greens with a sheet or row cover to keep them going for weeks longer. Harvest green tomatoes before frost โ€” they'll ripen indoors. Bring dwarf citrus and tender herbs inside.
NovemberPlant garlic if you haven't. Mulch beds heavily. Kale, collards and spinach get sweeter after frost โ€” keep picking. Move indoors for winter herbs.
DecemberRest. Grow sprouts and microgreens on the counter. Review what worked, save seed catalogs, plan next year.

Check your own ZIP's frost dates โ€” they shift by a week or two even within the metro area. Look up your frost dates โ†’ ยท Penn State Master Gardeners, Philadelphia County โ†’

What to grow, by how much space you've got

๐ŸชŸ A windowsill

Herbs (basil, mint, parsley, chives, oregano), green onions regrown from scraps in a glass of water, leaf lettuce and microgreens. Shallow roots, quick harvest, happy with 4+ hours of light.

๐Ÿฝ๏ธ A kitchen counter โ€” no sun at all

Sprouts (mung, lentil, alfalfa, broccoli) in a jar with a mesh lid: rinse twice a day, eat in 5 days, no light required. Microgreens in a shallow tray of soil: 7โ€“14 days. The fastest food on earth.

๐Ÿชฃ A few buckets on a step or fire escape

One plant per 5-gallon bucket: tomato (choose a determinate/bush variety), pepper, eggplant. Or a bucket of bush beans, lettuce, or radishes. Add a strawberry hanging pot.

๐Ÿ  A small yard or patio

A 4ร—4 raised bed grows a startling amount: tomatoes, peppers, bush beans, zucchini, cucumbers on a trellis, and greens tucked underneath. Add garlic in fall โ€” it needs almost no attention.

๐Ÿ™๏ธ A community plot

Full-size gardening for a small annual fee, plus neighbors who'll teach you. This is the best option in the city if you can get one. How to find a plot โ†’

๐ŸŒณ Perennials โ€” plant once, harvest for years

Fruit trees (dwarf apple, pear, fig โ€” figs do very well in Philadelphia), berry bushes (raspberry, blackberry, blueberry), rhubarb, asparagus, and perennial herbs like thyme, oregano, sage and mint.

How not to kill it โ€” the five things beginners get wrong

  1. No drainage holes. Water sits, roots rot, plant dies. Every container needs holes in the bottom. This kills more container plants than anything else.
  2. Wrong kind of watering. Water deeply and less often, not a splash every day. Stick a finger an inch into the soil โ€” if it's dry there, water until it runs out the bottom. Containers in July heat may genuinely need it twice a day; in-ground beds need it far less.
  3. Planting too early. Tomatoes, peppers, basil and beans set outside before the soil warms sulk for a month or die. Wait until after the last frost โ€” around April 20 here, and early May for the heat lovers.
  4. Crowding. Reading the spacing on the seed packet feels wasteful and isn't. Crowded plants compete, stay small, and get disease from poor airflow.
  5. Not feeding container plants. Pots run out of nutrients in about 6โ€“8 weeks โ€” there's no soil ecosystem to replenish them. Mix compost in, or use a cheap liquid feed every few weeks.

Free things that help a lot

  • Mulch โ€” 2 inches of straw, shredded leaves or grass clippings on the soil surface cuts watering roughly in half and smothers weeds. Free from your own yard in fall.
  • Compost โ€” kitchen scraps and leaves become the best soil amendment there is, for nothing.
  • Coffee grounds and crushed eggshells โ€” free soil amendments, and coffee shops will hand you grounds if you ask.
  • Rain โ€” a barrel or even a tote under a downspout waters a container garden for free all summer. Check your local rules on rain barrels.
  • Succession sowing โ€” a short row of lettuce or radishes every two weeks instead of all at once gives you a steady supply rather than one glut.

๐Ÿ› Pests, without spraying poison on your food

The whole point is food that isn't covered in chemicals. Almost everything can be handled without them.

Aphids

Clusters of tiny green or black bugs on new growth. Blast them off with a hose, or spray a squirt of plain dish soap in a quart of water. Ladybugs eat them for you.

Tomato hornworms

Huge green caterpillars that strip a plant overnight. Pick them off by hand in the evening. If you see one covered in white rice-like sacs, leave it โ€” parasitic wasps are killing it and will spread.

Slugs & snails

Ragged holes overnight. A shallow dish of beer sunk to soil level, crushed eggshells around stems, or a flashlight hunt after dark.

Squirrels & birds

The real urban pest. Netting, hardware cloth over seedlings, or a cheap chicken-wire cage. Squirrels take one bite of a tomato and leave it โ€” harvest slightly early and ripen indoors.

Squash bugs & cucumber beetles

Check the undersides of leaves and crush the small bronze egg clusters. Floating row cover over young plants until they flower stops them entirely.

Powdery mildew

White dust on squash and cucumber leaves in humid August. Water the soil, not the leaves; space plants for airflow; remove affected leaves. A milk-and-water spray (1:4) helps.

The strategy that beats all of it: healthy plants in good soil with enough sun and water shrug off pests that flatten stressed ones. Fix the growing conditions first, and you'll spend far less time fighting bugs.

๐ŸŒฐ Seeds, starts & saving your own

Where to get seeds

  • Seed libraries at public libraries โ€” free. Many library systems in this region run one.
  • Mail-order seed companies โ€” Baker Creek/Rare Seeds, Johnny's, Botanical Interests, High Mowing Organic, Southern Exposure, Burpee. Heirloom and non-GMO options.
  • Hardware stores, garden centers and dollar stores in spring โ€” cheap and perfectly good.
  • Farmers markets and seed swaps โ€” locally adapted varieties from people who grow them here.

See seed sources in the directory โ†’

Saving your own seed

  • Easiest: beans, peas, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers โ€” these self-pollinate, so seed comes back true.
  • Harder: squash, cucumbers, melons, corn โ€” they cross-pollinate wildly and you'll get surprises.
  • Save from heirloom/open-pollinated plants, not hybrids (labeled F1) โ€” hybrid seed doesn't come back true.
  • Dry completely and store in a paper envelope somewhere cool and dark. Label with the variety and year.
  • Tomato seeds do best fermented a few days in a little water, then rinsed and dried.

Picking a healthy starter plant or fruit tree

Many hardware and garden stores sell young fruit trees and vegetable starts ready to plant. Choose a good one:

  • Look for: deep green leaves, sturdy compact stems, moist (not soggy) soil, and roots that fill the pot without circling it.
  • Avoid: yellow, spotted or wilting leaves; bugs or fine webbing under the leaves; cracked bark; roots bursting out the drainage holes (root-bound); and tall leggy stems that flopped toward a window.
  • For fruit trees: pick a young, well-shaped tree over the biggest one โ€” smaller trees transplant and establish better. Check the tag for sun and space needs, chill hours, and whether it self-pollinates or needs a partner tree.
  • Best fruit for this region: figs (thrive in Philadelphia), dwarf apple and pear, sour cherry, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries (blueberries need acidic soil โ€” grow them in a pot with acid mix).
Hardening off: a plant raised indoors or in a greenhouse will scorch if it goes straight outside. Set it out in shade for a few hours a day for a week, increasing the time, before planting.

๐Ÿ™๏ธ Community gardens โ€” how to get a plot

Philadelphia has a deep community-garden tradition. A plot costs little or nothing, comes with tools, water and neighbors who know what they're doing.

How to find one

  • Walk your neighborhood. Genuinely the best method โ€” most gardens post a contact name or a sign on the fence.
  • Neighborhood Gardens Trust has preserved dozens of Philadelphia community gardens and will connect you with a garden leader. Email ngt@pennhort.org.
  • Grounded in Philly maps vacant land and community gardens across the city.
  • Pennsylvania Horticultural Society (PHS) runs City Harvest and supports gardens citywide.
  • Outside Philadelphia: ask your county Cooperative Extension office, township parks & rec department, or a local church โ€” many host plots.

Neighborhood Gardens Trust โ†’ Grounded in Philly โ†’

What to expect

  • Waiting lists are real. Popular gardens have long ones. Get on more than one list, and ask now for next season rather than in May.
  • Small dues are common โ€” usually a modest annual fee that covers water and supplies.
  • Work expectations โ€” most gardens ask members to help with shared workdays. That's where you learn the most.
  • Ask before you commit: plot size, water access, tool storage, sun exposure, and whether soil has been tested.
  • Can't get a plot? Many gardens welcome volunteers, and volunteers usually go home with produce.
Community gardens are also the single best free source of gardening knowledge you'll find. The person in the next plot has already made every mistake you're about to make.

While you wait for the harvest

Growing takes a season. Eating cheaply starts today.

Cheap real food, right now

  • Salvage / bent-and-dent grocers โ€” the same food at 30โ€“70% off, mostly because a box got dented.
  • Bulk produce houses and farm stands โ€” produce by the lot instead of by the pound.
  • Amish bulk bins โ€” flour, oats, beans, rice and spices at a fraction of jar-and-package prices.
  • Flea markets โ€” produce direct from growers, plus the pots, jars, canners and freezers you need.
  • Markdown timing โ€” every store has a discount hour. Ask an employee what time it is.

๐Ÿ’ธ Where to shop for less โ†’

Free & matched food

  • SNAP/EBT at farmers markets โ€” many run "Double Up"-style programs that match your money on fruits and vegetables.
  • Food pantries with gardens and farms โ€” a growing number grow and give away fresh produce.
  • Gleaning and "ugly produce" programs, plus end-of-market markdowns.
  • WIC for eligible families with young children, and senior farmers market vouchers.
  • Dial 211 โ€” free and 24/7, anywhere in the U.S.

Find free food near you โ†’